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Bugaboos Alpine Climbing

July & August

Climbing in the Bugaboos is the dream of every Alpinist.  Join us as we create a custom trip for you.  Our trips base out of the comfortable Kain Hut.  Porters can be organized to carry your gear to the hut.  All of these objectives are climbing in a day from the hut - with the exception of the Howser towers.


While a destination for very experiences alpinists seeking to dance up classic rock climbing test-pieces, the Bugaboos also offer a great venue for learning to climb in the mountains.  


Classics include:


Pigeon Spire (3156m) West Ridge PD 5.4

An ascent of Pigeon demands an entry level alpine climber bring together all the tools of the trade.  Glacier travel, steep snow climbing and all styles of rock climbing.  This incredibly aesthetic ascent is one of the most popular climbs in the Bugaboos - and for good reason!  A great first 'big' Alpine climb.

Bugaboo Spire (3204m) NE Ridge: D-5.8

This is the classic of the range made famous by the famed '50 classics' distinction.  A complex approach gives way to 12 pitches of up to 5.8 granite crack climbing to the N summit.  From there it is a stunning traverse to the S Summit and descent via the Kain route & Bugaboo/Snowpatch col. 


Bugaboo Spire (3204m) Kain Route: PD+ 5.6

Another classic alpine rock climb, made more rich by the historical 1st ascent made by Conrad Kain in 1916.  The route ascends steep snow to the Bugaboo/Snowpatch Col and then scrambles up a granite ridge with 3rd/4th class rock.  The crux gendarme is 5.6 and never to be forgotten and within another couple pitches you'll be at the summit! We descend the climbing route.


Snowpatch Spire (3084m) Rock Climbs 5.8-5.10

- Snowpatch Route: Many pitches of great rock climbing up to 5.8.  Descent is by rappel.

 - Surfs Sup: Stunning crack climbing climbs the SW ridge and then traverses to the S summit.  Descent is by rappel.  


Howser Towers  Becky/Chuinard ED1 5.10 22 pitches 

Truly an alpine test piece and an unforgettable and majestic climb.  This climb demands strength, strong climbing technique and efficient movement all day.  Any interested climbers should have already climbeed with us to ensure adequate skills and efficiency.  


Other classic climbing is available in the Bugaboos that provide for excellent training objectives, pure rock climbs or marginal weather objectives.  These can include rock climbing such as:


- Ears Between (6 pitches 5.7)

- McTech Arete (6 pitches 5.10) or

- Lions Way (6 pitches of 5.6).  


Mountaineering and mixed glacier / rock ascents of the Marmalotta, the Pigeon Feathers or Hounds tooth provide interesting objectives in inclement weather.  East post spire provides a great scrambling ascent in the most inclement of conditions.

Bugaboos Alpine and Rock Climbing

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